Our favourite Mayan ruins in southeast Mexico: Chiapas and Yucatan
There are about fifteen notable Mayan archaeological sites in the southeastern Mexican states of Chiapas and Yucatan. Some sites are easier to visit than others but we like our temple ruins and so made the effort to see as many as possible in the time that we had. Here’s a rundown on nine of the best Mayan ruins that we visited in March/April 2014.
Ek’ Balam
Ek’ Balam is refreshingly free of tourists and well worth visiting. The ruins are surrounded by dense forest and the view from the top of the Acropolis is superb. Ek’ Balam is compact in size but the above-mentioned views and forest location meant we liked this site very much.
The Twins, Ek’ Balam
The Oval Palace, Ek’ Balam
Where is Ek’ Balam archaeological site?
Ek’ Balam is located in Yucatan, 25km north of the small town of Valladolid.
How do you get to Ek’ Balam on public transport?
In theory, it is possible to catch a colectivo (shared transport) from downtown Valladolid to the ruins but we had trouble finding one that was leaving anytime soon (i.e. when full) so we ended up taking a taxi. On the return journey, we didn’t have to wait too long to grab a taxi that was dropping off more tourists but again we didn’t see any colectivos.
How long do you need to see the site?
About 1½ to 2 hours is ample to see the site but don’t forget to factor in an hour each way to get there from and return to Valladolid.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
$413 pesos (approximately US$21)
Opening hours:
8am-5pm
Where to stay for visiting Ek’ Balam
Valladolid is the closest major town to Ek’ Balam and the best place to stay. Hotel Casa Rosario is a good-value modern style hotel, or if you prefer a hostel, take a look at Hostal Guacamayas.
Chichén Itzá
Widely considered to be one of the country’s best Mayan ruins. there is a reason why Chichén Itzá is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Mexico; simply put it is extremely impressive. When you enter the site the first thing you see is the huge Pyramid of Kukulcán which is most definitely one of those ‘wow’ moments. There is no getting away from the fact that Chichén Itzá is very overcrowded with both tourists and hawkers but if you spend the previous night in Pisté (or Valladolid) and get to the site when it opens at 8am, you will only have to share it with a handful of other visitors for at least an hour, maybe two if you are lucky.
El Castillo (Pyramid of Kukulcán), Chichén Itzá
Gran Juego de Pelota, Chichén Itzá
Where is Chichén Itzá archaeological site?
Chichén Itzá is located in Yucatan, about 2km from Pisté and 54km from Valladolid.
How do you get to Chichén Itzá on public transport?
If you are staying in Pisté then you can walk to the site or take a taxi. Alternatively, there are plenty of buses and colectivos passing by as Chichén Itzá is just off the main highway linking Cancun with Valladolid and Merida.
How long do you need to see the site?
If you are in a rush you can see the whole area in about 2½ hours but 4 to 5 hours will give you more time to enjoy the site and take in its many architectural and historical attractions.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
$481 pesos (approximately US$25)
Opening hours:
8am-5.30pm
Where to stay for visiting Chichén Itzá
There are a handful of places to stay in Chichén Itzá village itself, with places like Villas Arqueologicas Chichen Itza just a few steps to Chichén Itzá’s entrance. Many independent travellers (including us) stay in Piste a couple of kilometres away where there are more budget options and a wider choice of places to eat.
Uxmal
Uxmal was one of our favourite Mayan sites. The oval-shaped Pyramid of the Magician is quite unusual and very big and you get great views over the whole complex from the Governor’s Palace. We would definitely recommend making the effort to include it on an itinerary even if public transport is lacking a little (see below).
Casa del Adivino, Uxmal
Palacio del Gobernador, Uxmal
Where is Uxmal archaeological site?
Uxmal is located in Yucatan, 86km from the colonial city of Merida and 16km from Santa Elena.
How do you get to Uxmal on public transport?
There are only 5 buses a day between Merida and Uxmal (and Santa Elena) so make sure you have an up to date schedule so as not to miss the bus going back to Merida or onto Santa Elena if you decide on this option. Alternatively you can join a tour ex Merida or take a taxi. The bus from Merida continues to Campeche so one option is to visit Uxmal en route between the two cities. In fact we did this. We left Campeche on the morning bus, spent about 2 hours at Uxmal and then caught the onward bus to Merida in the afternoon. You can leave your luggage for free in a secure cloakroom near to where you buy your entrance ticket (a left luggage service is available at quite a few of the archaeological sites in Yucatan and Chiapas).
How long do you need to see the site?
The site is quite spread out but two hours is plenty of time for the casual visitor. Keep 15 minutes or so aside to walk back to the main road if you go for the bus option.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
$413 pesos (approximately US$21)
Opening hours:
8am-5pm
Where to stay for visiting Uxmal
We based ourselves in Merida which is well worth a visit in its own right, so allow yourself extra time there. Merida has a lot of accommodation options to choose from. Browse Merida hotels here.
Tulum
Situated along the rugged coastline and overlooking the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea, Tulum arguably has the most stunning location of all Yucatan’s Mayan sites. On the downside, the site is extremely popular with visitors. Its proximity to Playa del Carmen, Cancun and all of the other resorts along that coast means that tourists arrive in droves all day long. The advice given in the Lonely Planet Guide to Mexico to visit early or late in the day is worth heeding but the site itself is pretty small and losing the crowds is nigh on impossible at any time of the day. That said, we would still recommend a visit and getting photographs without other tourists in them is actually pretty easy as many of the building are roped off and not accessible – you just have to jostle for space on the path.
Pyramid El Castillo, Tulum
Templo del Dios del Viento, Tulum
Where is Tulum archaeological site?
Tulum ruins are located in the eastern part of the Yucatan Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo. They are 3km from the town of Tulum and 66km south of Playa del Carmen. Cancun is 131km away.
How do you get to Tulum on public transport?
You can walk from the town of Tulum or hire bicycles. The most direct (and shortest) route is along a busy highway but it is much nicer to walk/cycle along a pleasant bike path that links the town with the beach (5km from the town) and head to the ruins that way. There are plenty of taxis and the fare is in the region of $50 pesos (approximately US$3.50) one way. If you are based in either Playa del Carmen or Cancun, there are plenty of buses and colectivos to Tulum town. Alternatively, there are numerous companies offering tours.
How long do you need to see the site?
2 hours will allow plenty of time to walk around the ruins.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
$65 pesos (approximately US$3.50)
Opening hours:
8am-5pm
Where to stay for visiting Tulum
Tulum town is the closest base for visiting Tulum ruins and there are plenty of places to stay. Tents or concrete tubes converted into rooms at Tubo Tulum Hostel are a popular choice for backpackers and budget travellers, and a bit of a novelty too. For the most stunning setting, and if your budget allows, stay at one of the hotels along the beach at somewhere like Casa Mia. Budget travellers could consider the tents at Chavez Eco Beach Camping and Cabañas.
Palenque
Palenque is a superb place to visit. It is the most popular Mayan site in Chiapas state and does get busy but it is not in the same league (busy wise) as Chichén Itzá. Given the impressiveness of the ruins however, they certainly represent good value for money when compared with many of the other Mayan sites in southeastern Mexico. Among the country’s best Mayan ruins, Palenque is surrounded by dense jungle and what we liked about our visit was the fact that you could enter via the upper entrance, see all of the main sites and then walk downhill through the jungle (seeing some minor ruins along the way) to the museum and main road back to town.
Temple of the Inscription, Palenque
Site Museum, Palenque
Where is Palenque archaeological site?
Palenque ruins are located in Chiapas, 7km from the modern town of Palenque.
How do you get to Palenque on public transport?
Getting to the ruins from the town is nice and simple. Colectivos run from the centre of town to the ruins at least every 20 minutes and it is easy to hail one from the roadside for the return journey.
How long do you need to see the site?
2 hours will allow enough time to walk around the ruins if you have limited time but allow 4 hours if you want to walk through the jungle visiting the museum (which is worth seeing) along the way.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
It is necessary to pay your entrance fee in two parts at Palenque. The first part is paid at the National Park’s main gate and the second part is paid at the Archaeological Park’s entrance.
$36 pesos (approximately US$2) (National Park main gate)
$75 pesos (approximately US$4) (Archaeological Park entrance)
Opening hours:
8am-4.30pm
Where to stay for visiting Palenque
The best place to stay is in nearby Palenque town where there are a lot of hotels and hostels to choose from. Check some of the options here.
Yaxchilán and Bonampak
Bonampak pretty much consists of one main plaza and a large Acropolis and externally is the least impressive set of ruins that we visited in Mexico but the vivid frescos inside the modest temple are the big draw. Quite a few of them have been sympathetically restored and it’s easy to make out courtly life, war and ceremonial scenes from classical Mayan times. Authorities limit the number of visitors allowed inside the temples at any one time and you are allowed to take photos but the use of flash is prohibited.
Edificio 3 Acrópolis, Bonampak
Templo de las Pinturas, Bonampak
Yaxchilán is located deep in the jungle on the banks of the Usumacinta River and is a great site for exploring. It reminded us a bit of some of the off-the-beaten-track temples in Cambodia (Beng Mealea and Koh Ker for example) and getting away from other visitors is pretty easy as there are plenty of well-marked trails that lead to ruins located deep into the jungle.
Edificio 33 Gran Plaza, Yaxchilan
El Laberinto, Yaxchilán
Overall, if you have time, both temples are worth visiting with Yaxchilán definitely being the better of the two because of its superb jungle setting and sense of remoteness. However it is important to stress that you will spend a lot of time on the road if you decide to undertake a day trip from Palenque and if your time is limited, the day could be better spent elsewhere.
Where are Yaxchilán and Bonampak archaeological sites?
Yaxchilán is located in Chiapas, 164km from Palenque.
Bonampak is located in Chiapas, 146km from Palenque.
How do you get to Yaxchilán and Bonampak on public transport?
Unless you are continuing across the border into Guatemala, it is easier and arguably less-expensive to visit Yaxchilán and Bonampak together on an organised tour out of Palenque. There are plenty of companies offering tours. The standard price is in the region of $600 pesos (approximately US$40) per person and includes breakfast, lunch, entrance fees and transportation including the return boat trip to Yaxchilán and the dirt-track ride to Bonampak. This price does not include the services of a guide but more expensive excursions are available to include this service or local guides can be hired at the individual sites. The tours depart very early in the morning (5am) and involve a lot of driving. Don’t expect to be back in town much before 7pm.
How long do you need to see the site?
If you take a guided tour then the amount of time at each site is dictated. From memory, I think we spent an hour at Bonampak and about 1½ hours at Yaxchilán and this was ample time for each site.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
$91 pesos (approximately US$4.50) (Bonampak)
$90 pesos (approximately US$4.50) (Yaxchilán)
Opening hours:
7am-5pm (Bonampak)
8am-5pm (Yaxchilán)
Where to stay for visiting Yaxchilán and Bonampak
If you’re planning on joining an organised tour to visit Yaxchilán and Bonampak, Palenque is the best place to base yourself.
Toniná
This was the first Mayan ruins we visited in Mexico and it is definitely one of our favourites. From the carpark/ticket entrance it’s a pleasant walk through open grassland to the main plaza and the first view of the towering Acropolis. To quote our American cousins, ‘It’s awesome!’ Unlike many of the other sites in the region, you are free to explore (nearly) every nook and cranny and the views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the main pyramid are superb. Another major draw is the distinct lack of tourists at the site and we also think Ocosingo is a pleasant place to spend the night.
Toniná near Ocosingo
Toniná near Ocosingo
Where is Toniná archaeological site?
Toniná is located in Chiapas, 14km east of Ocosingo.
How do you get to Toniná on public transport?
Colectivos depart every 30 minutes or so from the central market in Ocosingo and will drop you at the entrance to the site. The last colectivo back to town departs at 5.30pm.
How long do you need to see the site?
It’s a good 20-minute walk in each direction from the ticket office to the Grand Plaza so allow 3 hours to fully appreciate the site.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
$60 pesos (approximately US$3)
Opening hours:
8am-5pm
Where to stay for visiting Toniná
Ocosingo is the closest town to the ruins at Toniná and there are a few places to stay there. Alternatively, Centro Ecoturistico Kayab is a couple of hundred metres from the archaeological zone.
Edzná
Edzná will not instantly impress in the same way some of the other Mayan sites in this list will but, it is little visited and makes for a perfect half-day excursion out of Campeche (which by the way, with its stunning main plaza and colonial backstreets, will instantly impress). If you do come here, be sure to check out the Temple of the Masks and be careful of ants – the little devils are everywhere and they bite!
Gran Acrópolis, Edzná
Nohochná Plaza Principal, Edzná
Where is Edzná archaeological site?
Edzná is located in Yucatan, 53km southeast of Campeche.
How do you get to Edzná on public transport on public transport?
Colectivos depart every 30 minutes or so from Campeche and take approximately 1 hour.
How long do you need to see the site?
Edzná is not a big site so 1½ hours is ample time to explore it.
Current entrance fee for non-Mexicans:
$60 pesos (approximately US$3)
Opening hours:
8am-4.30pm
Where to stay for visiting Edzná
Campeche is the best base for an excursion to Edzná and is also a town that should be on your list of places to visit in Mexico. Campeche has a lot of options but for price and location, you can’t go too wrong with AMBAR Rooms & Coffee or Hostal Boutique Casa Balche.
We hope you enjoyed our round-up of the best Mayan ruins. Do you have any others to add? Let us know in the comments below…
PIN OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST MAYAN TEMPLES IN MEXICO TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARDS…
Well now, this was a lot of ruins to visit but they do look impressive. We visited Chichén Itzá a few years back and I still recall the steep climb up the stairs to the top. In olden days, severed heads rolling down (think of the movie ‘Apocalypto’) would have gained a fair speed by the time they reached the baying crowds at the base of El Castillo.
You must have got up very early for most of these visits. I was struck by the lack of tourists in the photographs. Well done!
Some we visited early and some we visited late but at Uxmal it was midday, which was the best time of all as nobody else was mad enough to be there in the heat!
Can you recommend any local Maya guides?
Afraid not, we looked round the sites on our own. There did seem to be local guides at each site however that could be hired.
This is a pretty sweet selection! I’d only add Calakmul to the list—the hardest mayan site I’ve reached in Mexico and one of the most beautiful.
Thanks and yep, Calakmul is a tricky one to get to. We would like to all combine the Mayan ruins in that region with the north of Belize – next trip I guess!
Great info guys! We’ve enjoyed a few Maya ruins over the last couple weeks. We really enjoyed Uxmal a few days ago.
Hi Dan, nice to hear from you. I hope you are keeping in good health? Kirsty told me you were on a family holiday in Mexico – I trust you had (or are having) a good time? Canada is still on the cards for in the future but when we leave Chiang Mai we are off to India via Bangladesh for a few months. We should arrange a Siem Reap reunion one of these days…
This is perfect guys, honestly. Such a comprehensive and visual guide is exactly the kind of thing I’m hoping to find when researching about new locations, especially when it’s done so well.
Thanks very Dale, we appreciate the kind words. If you are going to this part of the world and need anything further just let us know.
Thanks Dale, we appreciate the kind words. If you are planning a trip to that part of the world, let us know if you need any further info.
Awesome article. You gave great information! I have visited about half of the ruins you mentioned. My favourite was Palenque. The palace there was amazing!
If you like the Mayan ruins in Mexico, there are other fantastic non-Mayan ruins in Mexico also.
The ruins at Teotihuacan (1 hour north of Mexico City) and Monte Alban (30 minutes from Oaxaca City) are great places to visit!
Wow, I can’t believe that you were able to get pictures of some of these locations with out all the tourists. They have overtaken a lot of the places and taken away some of the magic. Thanks for sharing them with us.
Thanks for your comment Jenn. We were quite lucky at some places (Tulum for example) and we got there really at Chichén Itzá
but at the less popular ones we didn’t see many other visitors at all, which surprised as they were just as interesting as the big hitters and not that difficult to reach on public transport (except for Yaxchilán and Bonampak that is!).
What a brilliant place in this is. Mayan sites are really historic gems.
I am a little disappointed that you did not mention the other great sites close to Uxmal — Kabah, Labna, Sayil….. All within a short drive from Uxmal and part of the Puuc Route.