Our visit to Buzludzha Monument: the UFO on the hills of Central Bulgaria
Neither of us is particularly fond of the term bucket list – the phrase is over-used these days and it grates a little when we hear it. However, if we did subscribe to such a list, then Buzludzha Monument in Bulgaria is one that has been on our … bucket list for a few years. Even before getting heavily into concrete, after seeing a friend’s photographs of this imposing UFO-shaped wonder, we were hooked.
What is Buzludzha?
In brief: Opened in 1981, Buzludzha was built by the Bulgarian communist regime to commemorate the place where, in 1891, the Bulgarian Social-Democratic Workers’ Party (which became the Bulgarian Communist Party) first met and was formed. The modernist-style UFO building apparently cost 7 million Euros to construct! For several years thereafter the Communist Party held annual meetings there but after communism fell in 1989, the building’s decline began – ravaged by both harsh elements and vandals.
Where is Buzludzha?
Located in the hills of central Bulgaria, the nearest village to the Buzludzha Monument is Shipka, 20 or so kilometres away. The closest town of significant size is Kazanlak, a further 12 kilometres from Shipka. Buzludzha is actually the name of a 1,440 metre-high mountain in the Central Balkan mountain range and it’s located close to the historic Shipka Pass, the site of several famous battles between the Bulgarians and the Ottoman Empire during the Russo-Turkish War that took place from 1877 to 1878.
Click here to see Google map version.
Why visit Buzludzha?
What self-respecting lover of modernist Communist-built architecture wouldn’t want to see Buzludzha for themselves?! We’ve seen a lot of concrete, particularly over the last couple of years, and we have to agree this is one of the most visually impressive buildings we’ve clapped eyes on.
Over the past few years, Buzludzha has become something of a Mecca for urban explorers and lovers of Socialist-era architecture. It seems that every traveller to the region wants to check it off their list. But the real stripes are earned not from merely visiting this concrete eyesore on a mountain ridge but from entering it: sneaking in surreptitiously and illegally, risking life and limb. Yes, life: two French tourists died whilst exploring the building a couple of years ago*.
After the building was abandoned in 1989, it was initially left unguarded, largely attracting little attention. It was left open to the whim of vandals who did a good job of destroying the interior and graffitiing the walls. One theory is that allowing self-expression of anti-Communism in the form of vandalism was deliberate on the part of the government. For many travellers, the major attraction of Buzludzha was not in admiring the architecture itself, but the thrill of exploring abandoned places. For us, it was both of those things …
*** UPDATE*** We’d read accounts of the deaths – cited as murder – of two French tourists at Buzludzha and even seen photos of the small shrine to them, in the bowels of the UFO. However, when we delved further, we couldn’t find any news articles to corroborate the stories. Eventually, we found a post on the site Abandoned Berlin which concludes it is some kind of elaborate hoax! The fact this was confirmed to the author by Ivan at the IT Shipka Hotel is sufficient evidence for us to believe this version of events. Annoyingly, we didn’t think to ask Ivan ourselves during our stay. It seems the mysterious ‘deaths’ have turned into something of an urban myth! *** Continue to the end of the post for a further update and more intriguing reading on the subject … ***
A good two or three years after Buzludzha first came onto our radar screen, we were in Bulgaria and we started to make enquiries. We’d read accounts of how it was possible to enter Buzludzha by squeezing through an opening in the side of the building but we’d also heard rumours that this was no longer possible and that the site was now manned by security guards. “You might still be able to get inside” we were told at our hostel in Plovdiv where they were offering a day trip to Buzludzha. The site is a two-hour drive from Plovdiv (the most popular place to visit from) and the cost of the excursion on offer was €25 per person so, always up to do things independently AND save money, we declined and decided to plan a route through Bulgaria that allowed us to stay in Shipka, just 20 minutes’ drive from Buzludzha.
Street Art at Buzludzha Monument
HOW TO GET TO BUZLUDZHA MONUMENT INDEPENDENTLY
As we said, we could have taken transport arranged by our hostel in Plovdiv. However for those travellers, like us, who prefer to explore things independently, here are the answers to some of the questions you might have.
Do you need your own transport to visit Buzludzha?
Not necessarily. Of course, if you have your own transport, it’s all pretty easy and straightforward! However, with a little planning and bit of extra time, it’s not essential …
Is it possible to visit Buzludzha by public transport?
Almost. You can travel as far as Shipka by bus. First, take a bus to Kazanlak which is on the main road between Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital, and Burgas on the Black Sea coast. We found only three daily buses from Sofia to Kazanlak and took the first bus which left Sofia at 1030am (taking a little over 3½ hours). You can also take the train but the timings weren’t very sociable or convenient so we opted for the bus. From Kazanlak, take the bus to Shipka (buses run approximately every 30 minutes on weekdays and less frequently on weekends). Our bus from Sofia dropped us at a bus stop in the centre of town across the road from the Kazanlak Grand Hotel. The bus to Shipka also stops here so there is no need to walk to the main bus station. By the time we arrived at our hotel in Shipka, it was 3.30pm, so we decided to wait until the following morning to visit Buzludzha.
Are there hotels or guesthouses close to Buzludzha monument?
We stayed at the Shipka IT Hotel, which is a short walk from the centre of the village where the buses stop and around a 20-minute drive from Buzludzha. The Shipka IT Hotel is a small hotel/guest house with good rooms, and which thoroughly deserves its high rating on Booking.com. The manager Ivan and his wife are very personable and speak good English. Ivan can also arrange a taxi to visit Buzludzha and the surrounding area.
There are limited places to eat in Shipka, so we decided to have dinner at the hotel. We had a tasty home-cooked Bulgarian meal which was very good value, as was the jug of wine we washed it down with. At 6 lev per person (€3 or just over $3), breakfast cost more than we usually spend in Bulgaria(!) and in comparison was a bit pricey particularly taking into account Mark’s non-cheese eating and the fact that neither of us partakes of tomato and cucumber at this time of day! But, there aren’t many other options if you want breakfast. The eggs, salami, cheese, toast, waffles and homemade fig jam did set us up nicely for our day of urban exploration!
We kind of regretted that we didn’t have a second night there just so we could relax on the terrace overlooking the hills and take a dip in the swimming pool.
The next closest accommodation option would be to stay in Kazanlak which is only around 12 kilometres from Shipka. Kazanlak is also on the main route from Sofia so there are plenty of public transport connections. Kazanlak would arguably make a better value base: a taxi to Buzludzha should cost the same from both Shipka and Kazanlak
There are also some remote hotels on the road to Buzludzha but you would need your own transport to stay at them.
How much does it cost to hire a car and driver to visit Buzludzha?
We paid 40 lev (€20) for a taxi arranged by our hotel in Shipka (the price was agreed upfront, based on the number of miles covered and the assumption we would take around three hours to see everything). In addition to stops at Buzludzha itself and the torch monument on the road below, the taxi driver took us to Shipka Pass, site of a memorial to the 1877 battles. Interestingly, whilst we were the only people at Buzludzha, the monument on Shipka Pass was heaving with local tourists!
Freedom Monument on Shipka Pass
The driver came from and returned to Kazanlak and so he dropped us off at Kazanlak bus station, saving both the return bus fare and time.
Can you go still go inside the Buzludzha monument?
This is the question currently on the lips of urban explorers to Bulgaria … And the simple answer is no, not now. Or, maybe not. The small openings that people used to squeeze through are now sealed shut. Attempts at prising the metal open are visible but until someone manages to throw something over the security cameras and smash a hole with a seriously heavy-duty sledgehammer, there is no chance. Occasionally we hear reports of travellers that have managed to get inside, but it seems that the authorities swoop in quickly to reinforce the entry point.
*** Update: Visiting Buzludzha Monument in 2018 ***
It appears that the authorities have finally sealed off access once and for all – there is a security hut next to the monument with an around-the-clock guard manning it. For those who truly care about this magnificent building, this is good news: from all accounts, the interior is not only close to deteriorating beyond repair, no thanks to some of the less respectful visitors, it’s very dangerous in parts. Campaigners are working to preserve Buzludzha Monument and in early 2018, Buzludzha was declared as one of the most significant examples of endangered heritage in Europe by Europa Nostra, and included in their ‘7 Most Endangered programme‘.
So, what does the interior of Buzludzha look like?
In July 2018, the BBC’s Travel Show gained access to Buzludzha. Watch the show: ‘Bulgaria’s crumbling ode to socialism‘ for a glimpse of what it looks like inside.
Note the security camera top left, above the heavily sealed entry points
Our friend Dave, aka uninvolvedobserver visited a couple of years ago and was able to get inside. For those who are curious, here are some of his photographs:
Above: The interior of Buzludzha Monument
Is it dangerous to visit Buzludzha?
Arguably not anymore seeing as there is currently no possible way of entering the building. However, the reason the building is now sealed off is because of the danger of falling debris and rotting floors. It’s not being melodramatic to say that previous explorers of the interior were risking their lives. But there is no danger in exploring the exterior of Buzludzha.
Are there security cameras and guards at Buzludzha?
Yes, security cameras are installed above the spots where previous access points are now firmly sealed (see above photo). Apparently, there are also speakers. Presumably, if the cameras pick up any mischievous activity, there will be a verbal warning! From May 2018, there is a permanent security guard positioned at the monument.
Is there an entrance fee to visit Buzludzha?
Nope – after all, it isn’t officially a tourist attraction!
When is the best time of day to photograph Buzludzha?
The main entrance to Buzludzha faces east which means that as you photograph it from the front, the sun is behind you. Perfect. If you are there in the afternoon, you’ll need to walk a little way down the slope to the backside of the building to get the best light. The view of Buzludzha from the torch monument is also very popular and in the morning, we had a little too much sunlight creeping in from the east. The afternoon would be the best time to photograph from this spot. As usual, it’s impossible to get it right from every angle!
What else is there to see nearby and in Shipka?
Most Bulgarian tourists aren’t at all interested in Buzludzha the UFO – they come to visit the monument on Shipka Pass and to visit Shipka Monastery, known locally as the Russian Church. Its golden onion-shaped domes are like a miniature version of the grand Orthodox churches in Russia and Ukraine.
Shipka Memorial Church
Shipka
Preserving Buzludzha Monument
You can’t get a much more comprehensive guide to the Memorial House of the Bulgarian Communist Party than this one. In their own words, this project “aims to provide a comprehensive guide to the past, present and future of the Buzludzha Monument”. It’s a fascinating website.
Further Reading on Buzludzha Monument
Intrigued by the story behind the deaths of the two Frenchmen, Mark’s dad put on his detective hat and decided to delve deeper into the question of whether or not they had been murdered at Buzludzha, and if so, why? Or whether it is just an elaborate hoax … Read his post: ‘Murders at Buzludzha: Fact or Fiction?’
Additionally, quite a few blog posts have already been written about the Buzludzha Monument, including many travellers who were lucky enough to have visited when it was still possible to sneak inside. Others have also written a far more in-depth account of the history, so we haven’t repeated the same detail here. These are our favourites, which also feature those much-coveted interior shots:
Global Gaz: Buzludzha Monument – Flying Saucer
Yomadic: Communist Party Headquarter Buzludzha – Bulgaria is so hot right now
Ex Utopia: The Buzludzha Memorial House: Bulgaria’s Communist Momento
READ MORE POSTS FEATURING BULGARIA
DID YOU ENJOY THIS POST? WHY NOT PIN IT FOR LATER…
Sounds like the perfect place for you two — combines bizarre monumental concrete architecture with street art (though without the streets).
Yep! You’re right about that! 🙂
I’ve just received this wonderful email concerning ‘my book’: I’ve removed the writer’s name but will answer publicly if that helps others…
“Jonathan:
It looks like I did find your correct e-mail address after all but thanks again for responding to the Facebook enquiry. I suspected MEAT in the title was just a reference to Gabriel 13’s passion for human meat, despite being a vegan, but what threw me was the fact that you wrote it as MEAT rather than meat. Hence the idea that MEAT was an acronym, like BILE (Baby I Like to Eat) later in the book. I have further comments about your book but let me get to the nub of the reason to contact you.
My son Mark and his wife Kirsty are nomads. Currently they are in Bulgaria (heading towards Veliko Tavarno) and recently they visited Buzludzha. While there, they heard about the so-called 2012 murders of two French urbexers (urban explorers) inside the monument and they mentioned this rumour in the write-up of their visit. I asked how and why the Frenchmen had died and Kirsty dug deeper but could find no evidence to corroborate the story but she did find a blogger’s website who dismissed the story as a hoax saying it came from an incident in a fictional book titled “MEAT: Memoirs of a Psychopath” – your book as it turned out. At that point, I took up the search and I downloaded and read the book looking for a description of the so-called murders. I found none – no mention of the Frenchmen, no mention of Buzludzha, no mention of Bulgaria even other than as the source of the sex-trafficked girls in Manchester – so I researched deeper into the background to the book and discovered that Dr Cerys Davies, the author of the book, was, in fact, you. I also discovered that you spend a lot of time in Bulgaria (currently in Sevlievo I believe) and that you have definitely visited Budludzha. I watched and enjoyed your Youtube video “Vseki den” and I also spotted the monument’s image on the front covers of “Gabrielites: MEAT …”, the extended version of MEAT, and on your “War Hoarse” music album.
Basically, my question is this: can you throw any light on the so-called murders of the two French urbexers at Buzludzha and who created the shrine down in the bowels of the building? Is it an urban myth? Are their murders described in the extended version of MEAT? (I’ve not bought the Gabrielites yet.) What can you tell me?
Now to your book. Given the length of this first-contact e-mail, I will send you my comments on your book by separate e-mail. I need to collect my thoughts first. It was a tough book to read.
I look forward to whatever light you can shed on the so-called Murders at Buzludzha.
(Name)”
Hi… This email is much appreciated and thank you for taking the time to write me. MEAT is written in capitals as it forms the main title. It is literal, meat as in animal flesh. And yes, Gabriel 13 AS A HIGHER RACE consumes the flesh of ‘a lower species’ – the human. Just as the human race consumes the flesh of species it considers to be lower: ANIMALS. What you have read is the free download version of Meat: Memoirs of A Psychopath. But: this title concerns only the memoirs of Gabriel. The answers you seek are in the continued works (Memoirs of A Psychopath – The Definitive Edition). A multi genre work and world’s first in literature. https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/527628 I cannot (under guidance) comment on the murders that took place at the Buzludzha complex or any others that the book and associated research has unncovered: though certainly do not dismiss them as a hoax. The book explains my relationship with ‘the authorities wider ‘ and ‘the sect’… I apologise if this is unhelpful. There Is a global conspiracy of silence and I remain in a most tenuous position… Only those who have not read the book perpetuate ‘the hoax myth’. As the title is in the possession of a mainstream publisher for consideration now as I reply: I cannot release a free copy to you as I would like to as this too is beyond my control! I sincerely thank you and wish you good luck in joining me and many, many others in the search for the whole truth! The building has now been sealed from the public and not for the reasons publically believed to be – My advice to all is KEEP WELL AWAY!
Best wishes, JT
Really interesting post! Definitely makes me want to read a bit more about Bulgarian history
Thank you! I have to admit, I knew little about the history here before visiting and am learning more each day! 🙂
Wow, so much has changed since we visited last October. The outside is still as stunning as ever, though. Can’t help but feel pretty lucky to have made it before it got sealed off.
Here’s our take on the place:
http://www.concreteandkitsch.com/2016/02/19/obsessive-capitvation-buzludzha-bulgaria/
Hope all well in Bulgaria, or wherever you may be at the moment! 🙂
We try to pretend that it’s OK that we couldn’t go inside, but secretly we’re gutted! Lol!
Bulgaria? She’s got some concrete beauties that’s for sure!
Never heard of this Kirsty, neat!
And 1 thing that degraded with the fall of Communism that was a bad thing 😉 Stuff like this intrigues me. From the location to the origin of the place, with secret meetings, etc, it has the feel of a Weird NJ local mag we see here in the Northeast.
Happy Travels!
The vastness and the money that went into buildings these things is quite incomprehensible sometimes!
That magazine sounds intriguing – for UFO hunters?
Hey guys! This turned up on Google so I figured I’d share our experience. We went yesterday and got in. There is a way 🙂 outside next to the building there are holes in the concrete covering old ventilation in the ground that lead to the basement. The view from the tower was amazing!
Really? 🙁 / 🙂 We had a feeling it wouldn’t be long before someone took a sledge hammer to the secure coverings and knock the hole through again! Unlucky for us … But I guess we’ll have to go back now!
My husband was born and raised in Bulgaria and was required to visit this as a part of school. He said it was a requirement to visit all of the countries Communist monuments. He said it was a very interesting place and when it opened the entire country was requested to come. Lots of great stories from my husband and in-laws point of view during this time.
Leaving this weekend to visit the country again and this time I Am excited to visit these sites. Great photography!
It must be so fascinating to hear all those stories first hand – we would love to have that opportunity! Does you husband have any photos from his childhood? We’ve seen some of the crowds at Buzludzha ‘back in the day’ and it certainly looked incredible!
Enjoy your trip – we’re also hoping to return to Bulgaria later this year.
Od wiosny 2018 r obiekt jest pilnowany przez agencję ochrony.